Exploring Bokor: A Ghost Town Mountain near Kampot, Cambodia
Kampot is a small, charming and laid-back town located in southwestern Cambodia. It is situated on the banks of the Kampot River, near the Gulf of Thailand, and is known for its French colonial architecture, relaxed atmosphere, and scenic natural surroundings. Kampot is also famous for its high-quality pepper, and there are several plantations in the area that offer tours and tastings. Many people escape to Kampot as a place to get out of the hustle and bustle of the city. However, if you're looking for a different kind of adventure, consider visiting Bokor Mountain.
The entrance at the base of Bokor Mountain
Bokor Mountain, also known as Bokor Hill Station, is a hilltop resort complex that was built by the French in the 1920s during their colonial rule of Cambodia. The area was designed as a retreat from the hot and humid climate of Phnom Penh, and it quickly became a popular destination for French expats and wealthy Cambodians alike. The complex included a hotel, casino, church, post office, and a range of other buildings but all was abandoned during the Khmer Rouge regime in the 1970s and fell into disrepair. In recent years, however, the Cambodian government has been renovating some buildings and opening it up to tourists including a newly renovated casino/hotel and a ‘six-star’ luxury hotel that once was a place of opulent decadence.
Le Bokor Palace - revitalized as a 6-star hotel - photo credit: Le Bokor Palace
A Ghost Town on a Mountain
What made Bokor Mountain so fascinating to us was the eerie nature of it all. It is a mixture of crumbling French colonial buildings slowly enveloped by the encroaching jungle and abandoned new developments that stand stark against the landscape, depressingly unfinished. To call it a ghost town is an understatement. It is a ghost mountain, with remnants of unoccupied buildings spanning back every decade for the last century. In the 1920’s to 1950’s it stands as a reminder of an opulent and luxurious era where the rich partied and gambled in a Golden Age heyday. In the 1970’s up until the 1990’s, bullet-hole riddled buildings harken back to a time when the area was one of the last remaining strongholds of the Khmer Rouge. Finally, we saw blocks upon blocks of modern dilapidated buildings and vacation homes, a reflection of the perhaps lofty and overly-ambitious construction dreams of revitalizing the mountain.
Getting There
The easiest way to get to Bokor Mountain is to rent a scooter in Kampot. Our hotel, Retro Kampot Guesthouse, offered scooters for $6 USD per day. The drive from the centre of Kampot to the base of the mountain takes about 45 minutes, and the road up the mountain is long and winding. It is another hour to the top of the mountain where the majority of sights are located. It's not for the faint of heart, but the views from the top are well worth the effort and if you enjoy riding on two-wheels, the roads are perfectly paved and easy to maneuver. Alternatively, you can hire a tuk-tuk to take you on a guided tour of the mountain.
Along the way, you will likely encounter families of wary and curious pig-tailed macaque monkeys scattered every kilometer or so as you wind your way up the mountain.
Top Sights to See
There are several sights to see on Bokor Mountain, each with its own unique history and charm. Here are some of the top sights to check out:
The Old Catholic Church: This church was built by the French in the 1920s and has been left to decay. It's a hauntingly beautiful sight, with crumbling walls and moss-covered floors. The acoustics in the space are also amazing and we couldn’t help but belt out a few tunes here.
The Black Palace: This was once the residence of the Cambodian king Norodom Sihanouk, but it was abandoned during the Khmer Rouge regime. Today, it's a decaying ruin with some interesting graffiti.
Le Bokor Palace: This hotel was once the crown jewel of Bokor Mountain, and it was a popular destination for French expats and wealthy Cambodians. Today, it's been renovated as a 6-star hotel and the outdoor courtyard with expansive views of the mountain down to the gulf of Thailand, is accessible to the public.
Popokvil Waterfall: This stunning waterfall is located just a short drive from Le Bokor Palace. It's a great spot for a swim on a hot day.
Lok Yeay Mao Monument: At the top of Bokor Mountain, there is a 29 meter tall statue that honors the ancient heroine in Cambodian Buddhist mythology - Yeay Mao - a protector of travelers and hunters.
